Trekking in the Navarre


When Spanish diplomats cut their deal to enter the EEC years ago they made a brilliant group of negotiations which brought home the richest package of subsidies of any Common Market country. The result: an incredible burst of prosperity, which transformed the shabby remnants of Franco's legacy into a vibrant economy, a creative hotbed, as well as the world's largest construction site. At one point, only Dubai had more cranes at work. Happily, some of the wealth went to significant place branding, a vast improvement of the road system, and admirable infrastructure development. Spain today is modern, connected, yet still in touch with its rich cultural heritage.


The Navarre region, which sits to the northeast of Barcelona on the road to Pamplona, is small enough to drive end-to-end in a day, but you could easily spend a week looking around. It stretches all the way to the French border. Think of a letter Y, backslanted. At the bottom point of the Y sits Zaragosa, a fine southern port of entry to the region, home to a spiffy new airport. There are regular, cheap flights available from all the European capitals. An unhurried atmosphere prevails. If you return your rental car after hours you just park it in the parking lot, note the space number, and drop your keys and the ticket at the drop box, no sweat. Drive 75km northwest, to the point where the two arms of the Y branch out and you reach the city of Tudela, founded in the 9th century, today's population around 35,000. The city enjoys a reputation as a place where Christians, Moslems and Jews lived together peacefully for over 400 years. What's attracted people to Tudela in the past has been a famous Easter pageant, baroque architecture, a medieval bridge over the river Ebro, old city walls and the medieval Jewish quarter, still intact. It's a charming, modest, quiet, slow-moving place.

Hip people have been drawn to Tudela in the last couple years by Aire de Bardenas, a boutique property of 22 rooms, dramatically situated on the outskirts of town on an elevated plateau just below a wind farm. The property sits at the edge of the Bardenas Reales, an extensive, semi-desert-like unpopulated area with striking geologic formations. The hotel has been featured in every major design and architecture magazine in the world, recipient of many awards and the darling of travel magazines. It's a minimalist construction with container-like residence cubes interconnected by glass-walled geometric passageways. You feel like you've stepped into the set for a fashion shoot, or perhaps a sci fi movie. The very austere lodgings turn out to be surprisingly comfortable, and Habitacion 22 has the best view, privacy, and a cast iron outdoor tub, an amazing place to just soak at dusk and stare at turbines lazily rotating on the distant horizon. The hotel has its own organic vegetable garden, and a well-regarded restaurant, a medium size meeting room, isolation, agreeable staff who have seen it all owing to so much press and attention. One definitely has the feeling of being supremely cool there, and the location is optimal for day trips throughout the Navarre. It has calm and tranquility to recommend it, a fine lodging to come home to each night. Might be a suitable venue for a small corporate meeting or retreat, or a mountain biking holiday due to the flatness of the surrounding terrain.


The city of Tudela is good for one afternoon walk, and tapas at an outdoor table in the town square, not a lot more. The taperia 'San Jaime' in the Plaza San Jaime has good food, reasonable prices and a lively young crowd in the evening. Include a day trip into the Bardenas Reales as part of your itinerary: it takes a half-day, easily navigable by good surface roads, or some rougher unpaved routes. Long hiking paths can be found, and well-marked bike trails. Bring drinking water.

Head 80km to the northwest and you arrive in the city of Logroño, capital of the Rioja wine region, at the upper left point of the Y. While not particularly well-known outside of Spain, Logroño is a prosperous, modern city with a thriving night life, wonderful tapas bars, exceptional food and outstanding wines. The city's broad boulevards fronted by 60s-style highrises recollect Miami or Beverly Hills, expressing a confident and unexpectedly cosmopolitan air. You can tour some of the higher profile wineries who send their vast production -the largest in Spain- all over the world. But a visit to a smaller viñedo reveals the process at a more human scale where the handmade aspect of winemaking can be appreciated up close. Consistently fine wines in Spain are made under the brand name Contino, whose vineyards are an easy 25 minute drive north of the city. The Contino winery is set on an alluvial plain whose terraces slope gently west to a bend in the Ebro, a perfect microclimate for raising grapes. The quality shows in the finished product, result of meticulous craft devoted to intentionally low production. Both Contino's Gran Riserva and Graciano of any vintage would make excellent bottles to take home.

On the other stem of the Y, 40km north of Tudela you reach Olite, seat of the Count of Navarre in the era of Carlos III (1387-1425). This medieval town on a hill, has a low skyline dominated by the silhouette of the Palacio Real. Built in the French Gothic style, it contains all the sumptuous features of the best French palaces of the time. You can walk at your own speed through a complex of rooms, gardens, moats or patios, surrounded by high walls, a constellation of towers rising overhead, and views of the countryside from all the ramparts.


Olite turns out to be another of those unknown treasures you find along the road. Its narrow medieval streets are lined with noble houses and Renaissance and Baroque palaces. La Joyosa Guarda, an interesting hotel renovation behind ancient walls, tucked away on the Rúa de Medios, has modern design and conveniences, but the rooms inexplicably do not have safes. Strange! Everything else about this hotel is wonderful, especially helpful staff and the advantage of a private garage. Another big plus is the hotel's kitchen: the owner doubles as the chef, and he knows his food, only working with local and seasonal fare, including serving his own label of wine and olive oil. This is a restaurant worth trying and every meal taken there was a winner. A block from the hotel is the Casa del Preboste restaurant. It says pizzeria on the outside, but don't let that deter you. Walk in, go all the way through the smoky bar to the back wall, and behind the swinging doors you'll find a sit-down restaurant which faces a wall-sized open fireplace where meats are being grilled. Defintiely eat there, order beef chops and lamb chops, a plate of pinchos, some fried potatoes and a bottle of the local Rioja. The server doesn't speak English, but it doesn't matter, you'll be understood. Few tourists go to this place: it's all locals. Prices are reasonable, and the flavors authentic.

It's only 40km to the northwest of Olite to Pamplona. Much has been written about this bustling city of 250,000, and its yearly running of the bulls. Those descriptions are best left to Papa Hemingway, and you are advised to wave hello as you drive by, and instead head west through lush mountain valleys of the Pyrenees, towards the coast, to Bilbao, a comfortable ride of about an hour and a half. Gehry's Guggenheim Museum focused attention on a place that had lost its vigor, delivered to Bilbao a global profile, revived tourism, turned a forgotten backwater of a million residents on the Bay of Biscay into a happening destination filled with groovy people. Yet the architect's grandiose statement sits on the bank of the river Nervión like an oversize piece of klunky reflective jewelry, an incongruous monument to the ego, with a dysfunctional interior guaranteed to induce vertigo or acute disorientation. Huge works by Richard Serra are displayed in a vast hall, yet claustrophobia happens and his remarkable sculptures definitely want more space to breathe. This Guggenheim is a must-see, and speaks so eloquently about the time we live in, where works of art get housed in gaudy, thin-skinned barns, and people who call themselves artists build huge replicas of cutesy puppy dogs covered in flowers. You can be back in Olite in time for dinner.

About 10km north of Olite you'll find the turnoff for Sangüesa, on the banks of the River Aragon, an historic town (population 5,000) whose origins can be traced back to the Bronze Age, and once a traditional stopover on the ancient pilgrim's route to San Juan Compostela. Important Roman ruins can still be visited there. Until around 1500, this was a strategic hotpoint in the defense of the Navarre against the adjacent kingdom of Aragon, which lies to the west. The old quarter has some lovely classical facades, but unless churches and convents interest you, continue through town and follow the road northwest into the hills to the Castillo de Javier, an impressive restoration with a fine museum. Several good hotels and restaurants stand next to the castle, and it's an excellent stopover on the ride through the mountain passes, which lead into Aragon. Sos del rey Catolico, a resort town at the crest of the range, has quaint walking streets and good hotels, with views of forest and gorges, all very picturesque. You continue down the hill headed south, passing old castles and small settlements, onto the flats.

Eventually you come to Sádaba, where a medieval fortification rises starkly above the landscape, visible from miles away. It's worth a stop simply to gaze at the towering classical proportions, and to dream of what this romantic land must have been like in bygone days, when knights and ladies, kings and princes, lorded over empires, now faint memories we simply dismiss with the vastly inadequate term history.

Hotel Aire de Bardenas

Ctra. Ejea NA- 125 Km 1,5
31500 Tudela
+34 948 11 66 66
http://www.hotelairedebardenas.com/


La Joyosa Guarda
Rúa de Medios, 23
31390 Olite
+34 948 741 304
http://www.lajoyosaguarda.com/


Casa del Preboste
Rúa Mirapies, 8
Olite
+34 948 71 22 50


Contino Vineyard
Finca San Rafael
Laserna-Laguardia
+34 945 600 201
http://www.cvne.com/web/bodegas.php?bod=3&Bodega-Viñedos-del-Contino-Vino

Diary entry: New Delhi, India

I've certainly learned my lesson: you don't go trekking about India without the aid of an experienced travel planner. You need a car to meet you at the airport, you need a good driver who can make a judgement call on the spur of the moment (this last trip my driver did a U-turn as soon as he saw a truck stuck in an ancient gateway- we would have been waiting there for hours). You need the expert advice of someone who knows the best routes, the reliable flights and trains (an oxymoronic thought in itself), and has the inside information on hotels. That's why I headed down to Gurgaon to consult Mohan at Travelscope India before leaving on a planned circuit through Rajasthan, which is another story altogether. I'm always interested in who is going where and why, so sounded Mohan on what the latest industry trends were in light of the Mumbai massacre, the world economic collapse and Bird Flu, not to mention all the Nervous Nellie terror alerts that have temporarily diminished tourism in India. Mohan's answer was instantaneous: people are discovering the South, for a multitude of excellent reasons.

Of course economics figures prominently in all this. People just can't spend with such abandon as before, and the South is definitely cheaper. It's nowhere near as known as the North. Mohan called it underexplored, not as expensive as the north, yet fairly priced. The South doesn't yet have the luxury that characterises the Golden Triangle of Delhi-Agra-Jaipur, areas most first-time travelers see, already developed for tourism. Turns out there's much to recommend the four states to the south (Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu) besides cost.

You can discover cultural heritage 10 centuries old through a wealth of temple architecture and structures emblematic of colonial history. There's an engaging warmth to life in the South, Mohan said, complemented by year-round good weather. Kerala's exotic backwaters have eco-friendly lodges, and tea plantations are everywhere. In fact, the cuisine- signature dishes, spices, and tea are all renowned delicacies. Telicherry pepper, often called the best, comes from Kerala. I'm convinced- next trip I'll go South. Maybe I'll try out the Golden Chariot, a new express rail connection between Bangalore and Goa. And then I'll report back to you.

TRAVEL SCOPE (I) PVT. LTD.

118, Qutub Plaza, DLF Phase I
Gurgaon – 122002. NCR of Delhi.
Tel. : 91-124-4381801 Extn. : 204
Fax : 91-124-4381805
Website : www.travelscopeindia.com

Diary entry: St Leonards on Sea, England

     It’s been almost 950 years since William the Conqueror’s bowmen put an arrow through the eye of King Harold at the Battle of Hastings and changed the course of history. You’d think that would be enough time to get over it and move on, yet a visit to this historic section of the south coast of England shows just how much people still remember. Perhaps I exaggerate (moi?) but the seaside hamlet of St. Leonards is rich in its memories. Bingo parlors, amusement palaces and the kitschy beachfront crazy golf course aside, you can’t go far without some remnant of the vivid past grabbing your attention. The names alone tell a story: Norman Road, Archer Terrace, Warrior Square. The ruins of a medieval castle and abbey overlook the tiny boat harbor, and a pastiche of architectural styles pay tribute to the passage of time. A kind of weird, wonderful vibe prevails, promoting visions of bygone days at the shore. It’s not just marauding Normans, either. Locals dress up as pirates and take you on tours of smuggler’s caves. Plaques commemorate sites destroyed in WWII bombings. And a local theatre company papers the town with posters advertising its latest production of “The Tart and the Vicar’s Wife.”

     Perhaps scale has some bearing. St Leonard’s is no Brighton, with its succession of screaming nightclubs and gelato stands and droves of orotund weekenders. You might label it an arty decay here, a small enough community where residents happen upon friends promenading. The tiny pedestrian lane called George Street, has trendy bistros set side by side with ancient curio shops and used book stores, where scruffy elderly hippies sip cappuccinos at outdoor tables. Even the fenced-off, long-condemned pier, with its ghostly silhouette adds a contemplative silence to the picture. Stroll along the boardwalk and you pass a succession of fish and chips places and Indian restaurants, wending your way around cyclists and young families pushing babies in prams, comfortably mingling with old folks on an afternoon stroll, jackets zipped to meet the exhilarating ocean breezes. Nobody hurries, and the regal figure of Victoria, timeless in bronze, presides stern-faced from her pedestal in Warrior Square, watching over the waves she once ruled.

     A few doors away, facing the same ocean, stands the Zanzibar International, a boutique hotel of 9 elegantly-appointed rooms, opened almost four years ago. Spare, minimal, light, airy, the property immediately garnered attention as one of the top small properties in Britain. A tiny oasis of unobtrusive hospitality, this jewel of a retreat seeks only your happiness. As always, the secret is in the details: the vintage telescope on its tripod in the front window; the sandstone Thai Buddha’s head, eyes downcast, on the ledge in your bathroom; the terraced garden with its tropical plants and comfy wood seating; the fully-stocked honor bar in the lobby; the DVD library which has something for every taste; and a genius-level breakfast IQ, “the last impression a guest has of the hotel, so it’s important to us.” Optimal location, devoted staff, fairly priced at the high end of the lodging spectrum. This romantic small hotel is a little dream worth visiting.
     Of course you could go across the square to the fusty old hotel for a third of the cost and get an ocean view, but you will need to tolerate a shabby ambience, the Fawlty Towers school of hotel management, and the dreaded English breakfast (runny eggs, overcooked bacon, cold white toast and two small brownish objects generously referred to as mushrooms). While a number of charming dining out options can be found in the area, the fish and chips shop near Zanzibar’s corner looked authentic, posted a nice menu, and sent out pleasing aromas, perhaps the best advertising of all: probably a great place to pop into for a fast snack.


Zanzibar International Hotel
9 Eversfield Place
St Leonards on Sea
East Sussex
TN37 6BY


Tel 01424 460109
www.zanzibarhotel.co.uk

Luxury Getaways in India

Author's note: Editors and fact-checkers have a way of removing juicy details that often make a story more interesting. You can see the following article in its entirety below, or in edited fragments elsewhere. The text posted here represents the uncensored original draft. SM

In light of the terror in Mumbai, the compelling question of just how safe India is requires a rethink. Don’t abandon India as a destination, even though the answer is complicated. Terrorists will select high-profile targets, especially those they call “soft”, with weak security. But that should not deter a trip. Security has been beefed up and the bad guys have been arrested. Let these simple cautions apply:

• Don’t spend your time in big city destinations, especially tourist haunts
• Make sure your connections are definite, safe, secure, in the care of experienced guides or handlers
• Whenever possible, avoid high-traffic public transport
• Steer clear of the urban glitz and glam spots
• When you first walk to your hotel room, count the doors to the fire exit, in the unlikely event you need to find your way there in the dark.

Having established these parameters, India still has much of the remarkable and incredible to offer, especially luxury experiences far from the teeming crowds. You can still find the soul of India, at a safe remove from the chaotic hubs of transformation. But progress intrudes, an aggressive national highway building program will soon render many of the outposts more easily reached. So, as always, go now while you can, when the values are good and the demand is low. Think of India as an opportunity.

The four destinations reported here were visited in October-November 2008, just prior to the Mumbai attacks. Three are in rural Rajasthan, one in the northeast state of Uttrakhan in the low Himalayas. Each offers exceptional and rewarding experiences for the intrepid traveler willing to go far afield from the mainstream.

Chhatra Sagar, an eco-friendly tent camp in Rajasthan, India, summons to mind the motto of Hoshi Ryokan, a Japanese inn located outside Osaka, Japan, first opened in 718 and today run by the 46th generation of founding family: "Take care of fire. Learn from water. Cooperate with nature." In many ways Chhatra Sagar is a living illustration of that quality of enlightenment. The camp lies a 2½ hour drive from the city of Jaipur. It's a lifetime project of the Rathore family, direct descendents of the Maharajah of Jodhpur, owners of this land for 17 generations. Originally in 1890, great-grandfather Thakur Chhatra Singh decided to dam a seasonal stream flowing through his estate and changed the face of the valley, turning arid scrub into lush farmland. Over the years irresponsible farming, well-drilling and animal grazing damaged the water table. In 2001 the family decided to give the land back to nature, and established this eco-resort of 11 camp-style tents overlooking 365 protected acres on the east side of the dam, which fills with water from October to March. Following their conservation effort, over 200 varieties of wildlife have returned, egret, heron, kingfishers, antelope, wild boar, small jungle cats, all easily observed from the ramparts of the dam or on nature walks into the habitat. The sustainability quotient is optimal- the camp serves all locally-sourced food, has intense community involvement, and is furnished by indigenous craft. The property employs 30 local families from the nearby village of Kheda Deogarh, sponsors teachers, provides medicine, classroom furniture and brings specialized educators who address subjects ranging from family planning to recycling to soil conservation. The Rathore family deeply love the land, and view water-harvesting as an ancestral responsibility. Stewards and guardians of a unique place, their personal involvement and constant presence reinforce the commitment. They bring to the equation a natural grace and elegance, making the experience an altogether authentic one. They have created utterly comfortable lodging, and the ‘one price-everything included’ policy makes for an even-more attractive offering. By far the most romantic beds are found in “the tents on the hill”, with their 360 degree view, to the east the Aravali Hills, to other directions the rolling contours of rural Rajasthan. Come for the silence, the bird-watching, the isolation, the bats who fly over the dinner tables at dusk, the fresh pomegranate juice on the terrace, the tangible humanity of this singular place.

Chhatra Sagar

Nimaj

District Pali 306 303

Rajasthan INDIA

Tel +91 2939 230 118

www.chhatrasagar.com

harsh@chhatrasagar.com

Romance and fantasy are the keywords which describe Devi Garh, a converted maharajah’s citadel 28 kilometers northeast of Udaipur, overlooking the village of Delwara in the Aravali Hills. This ambitious regeneration of a heritage structure fuses traditional architecture with splendid modern details, design, materials and conveniences in a setting so far from the here-and-now as to place one in a separate mindspace altogether. You can’t quite decide where you fit in time, with the unspoiled vistas, classical balconies and turrets, acres of white marble, and bathrooms of outstanding opulence, counterpoised with works of contemporary art and touches of tasteful modernism. You never wake up from the dream. The high service component only adds to the experience, with a staff:guest ratio that insures extreme attention if you want it. Accommodation goes from just-plain-cushy to over-the-top posh, and it’s virtually impossible to pry oneself away from the poolside, leafing through your bestseller, sipping lime water, punctuated by refreshing dips in water held to a perfect bathing temperature, and the lazy napping this kind of escapism encourages. All this before your visit to the Serena Spa, where the signature Marma treatment will leave you near-anesthetized in a zone of total relaxation. I’m not convinced there’s all that much to do in the area, though a walk with a guide through the settlement below can be a good introduction to a typical Rajasthani village, albeit one accustomed to a luxury resort in operation up on the hill for a decade, meaning higher prices than other hamlets. There is an amazing temple dating to 1100 AD well worth a visit, an offering, a prayer. A local astrologer will tell your future for about US$20, and there is a very fine naïve stone carver whose reliefs make excellent mementoes. Then a hike back up to the gates, a return to the sweet unreality, followed by a masterfully-executed traditional meal, perhaps in a mirrored private dining room high in the palace, accompanied by the strains of traditional flute. No wonder this spot was once called Raza Inayat, which translates Place of Gods and Goddesses. The resort is perfectly sized for meetings and events, delivering a singular getaway from the realities of the world, and ample time and space to rest and renew. Unforgettable.

Devi Garh

Delwara, NH 8, Near Eklingji

Nathdwara, District Rajsamand 313 202

Rajasthan INDIA

Tel +91 11 2335 4554

www.deviresorts.com

reservations@deviresorts.com

Amanbagh, situated in a secluded oasis of lush vegetation east of Jaipur, paints a brilliant picture of rural splendour and cultural heritage, while delivering high comfort, luxury and pampering. This remote getaway of only 38 rooms, designed by Edward Tuttle, features elegant walled pool pavilions rich in sandstone and pink and green marble, two restaurants and a spa. The guest can be assured of security and privacy, at the same time experiencing authenticity and sincerity in the service proposition. Aman hires great managers, and emphasizes humanistic principles in their staff training. This secret first-class escape, open just 4 years, built its reputation on repeat business (typical stay 3-11 days), where travellers kick back at poolside and then go forth in search of history and anthropology, all comfortably accessible nearby. Hearty Indiana Jones types endure the bumpy road up the precipitous side of a mountain top plateau to visit Neelkanth Temple, dating to 700AD, home of carvings both artistic and provocative. The way down affords a view of Mansarovar Lake, where a tranquil and leisurely floating lunch can be taken in the shadow of an abandoned fort, to the gentle lapping of the oarsmen’s strokes on the placid water. Another worthy half-day expedition, the deserted city of Bhangarh, allows wandering through ruins where 50,000 people once resided. Today it’s populated mostly by monkeys, who dart among the temple and palace on the hillside above. Ask for the guide Sita Ram, who can name every animal, plant, and ayurvedic remedy one encounters. His expert knowledge and great gentility add to the expedition. Amanbagh is a perfect place to celebrate pivotal life events like weddings, honeymoons, anniversaries, birthdays, reunions. But one could dream up other compelling reasons to spend a week there. Rajasthan’s legendary marble quarries, known for signature white, green and red hues, lie within reach. There are miles of marble brokers on the main roads about 30 miles west, vast yards full of cut slabs and enormous blocks- a shopper’s dream if one, for example, sought that exotic commodity. Budget allowing, copter in directly to the hotel’s private helipad. This alleviates a ½ hour flight from New Delhi to Jaipur, followed by a 1½ hour drive to the property. The last 45 minutes of the drive out are memorably bone-shaking due to washed out sections of road from last year’s monsoons. But definitely go. This outstanding destination has so much to offer in the details, more cultural experiences than a single stay allows, a wonderful menu to suit any taste, yoga at sunrise, the remarkable classic Rajasthani jewelry available in the boutique, and a wise little owl, avatar of Laxmi- goddess of wealth, who sits in a tree next to the entryway watching over every guest who arrives.

Amanbagh

Ajabgarh

Alwar 301 027

Rajasthan INDIA

Tel +91 1465 223 333

www.amanresorts.com

amanbagh@amanresorts.com

Escape and renewal figure mightily at Ananda in the Himalayas, a destination spa situated on a lofty hill overlooking the river Ganges, near Rishikesh. First you have to get there, and that alone takes some commitment. You can ride the train up from Delhi to Haridwar, around 5 hours of grueling track, with 1st class often sold out, so reserve early and lower your expectations. (If your only choice is to ride in 2^nd class, keep your hands on your bags and don’t let them out of your sight. Foreigners are targeted on the trains as easy victims and valises can disappear in a second.) Alternately you could take a private car, an exhausting 6½ hour trek from Delhi, through miles of Muslim villages, then navigate a twisty mountainous pass through a state reserve, home to wild elephants which you don’t see. You will meet a lot of monkeys, who congregate on the roadsides waiting for handouts. Flights into the airport at Derha Dun are frequently cancelled, so short of private aircraft into that airport the best option is to charter your own helicopter from Delhi, which will follow the lazy path of the Ganges north, finally settling on a helipad just down the hill from the property, which is set within the confines of a maharajah’s estate above a forested gorge. The view of sacred river through the haze from that altitude evokes visions of ancient culture and wisdom, and complete separation from the accelerated world of big cities and throngs of humanity. This could be the ultimate destination spa in the world, if seasoned travel pundits and major publications are be to believed. Think of Ananda as a place to reflect , an uncrowded oasis and never rushed, where you quickly forget there are 73 rooms and 3 villas (which each have private pools and come with butlers) nestled among the conifers. People typically stay one week or longer. Guests often extend, in fact 70% of the property’s business are 10+ days. You will meet an unusually high number of single travelers, 35-50 years old, 60% from abroad, many of them women traveling alone. People seem to be doing a lot of networking. You may be at the time of your life when you are asking, “Is that all there is?” This could well be the place to find some answers.

Your stay commences with a consultation at the spa under the watchful scrutiny of an ayurvedic doctor, who will no doubt tell you to reduce intake of all the foods you like, and eat more of everything you’d rather not, advise you which spices and herbs are good for you, what body type you are. It’s a nice experience, though, talking about oneself for nearly an hour, and at the completion the doctor meets with Executive Chef Anup Gupta, and briefs him on your dietary profile. Thus surfaces the next dilemma, since the kitchen believes that while the cooking of foods is a ritual and a worship, you need not torture yourself unduly. Chef Gupta offers a prayer before a meal, “let this food do good for me,” and he will indulge your preferences. He visits your table, discusses the lunch or dinner, and then asks, “May I have your permission to cook for you?” His ulterior motive is to give his guests a lifestyle, which they take home with them after they go. This is a kitchen unafraid to dispense large portions , enlightened enough to list calorie and carb counts on the menu. A chef and waiter are assigned to each guest. You can attend twice-weekly sessions in Chef’s show kitchen, where he freely dispenses the secrets of his trade. Of course, it will be difficult to duplicate the flavor of his Eucalyptus wood fire grill. This kitchen does excellent work, with both Western and traditional Indian fare.

The other cornerstone of the Ananda experience will be your visit to the spa. The extensive and modern facility spreads out over 3 levels adjoining the pool area, and offers every imaginable iteration of ayurvedic treatments, from full body massages and clinical hydrotherapy to heated oil dripped over the forehead and things so exotic you will need a good hour to read through the menu of offerings, an embarrassment of choice. Be bold, daring, adventurous and you will be rewarded. The spa is committed to ethical values, and strives to be as green and sustainable as it can, using mostly locally sourced herbs and oils and minerals, including a range of outstanding products. There’s a palpable humanism present, and a high pampering quotient made possible by a staff of 75 devoted spa professionals.

Daily yoga ought to figure in any visit, and it’s available at a variety of levels from gentle beginner stuff to private hard-core instruction. Weather permitting, you can get oriented with a 7am class outdoors in a lovely amphitheatre, or you may be fortunate enough to catch a session in one of the lofty rooms of the palace up the hill. To fill out your itinerary, you might audit Vedanta lectures. Recently Shri Ronan, senior disciple of Swami Parthsarthy, acted as guru-in-residence, and conducted a series on topics relevant to finding fulfillment in the lives we lead. As if that is not enough, you could study Ayurveda, do some serious meditation, avail yourself of the 6-hole golf course, set a fitness regimen, or delve into past life regression. Or take some unforgettable side trips to a temple at the snow line of the Himalayas, trekking through local reserves in the company of expert guides, seek the blessings of local swamis, or journey down into Rishikesh to wander among the pilgrims, and end your day with a sunset ceremony on the banks of the Ganges.

While management positions the property as a place for de-stress, detox, purification, anti-aging, or weight management, there is a deeper level of experience to be found. Ananda in the Himalayas has a splendid isolation, miles away from the commodified world of commercial spas. You have made a major journey to an ancient spiritual capital, the birthplace of yoga, where guests regard the time taken as a necessity, a place for recharging the batteries, for reconsidering the meaning of life, and for finding the strength to go forward. Highly recommended.

Ananda in the Himalayas

The Palace Estate

Narendra Nagar, Thhri Garhwal

Uttrakhand 249 175

INDIA

Tel +91 1378 227 500

www.anandaspa.com

sales@anandaspa.com

The greatest dilemma with travel in India comes in two areas: The first concerns transit, the simple fact of getting from one place to the next. Connections are often problematic, or filled with cultural obstacles that aren’t easily understood. These might be as mundane as getting stuck in your vehicle on a country road somewhere in the thick of an endless line of cars, all waiting for a traffic accident to clear at a remote railway crossing; going through the arcane protocols of multiple baggage checks at a secondary airport; negotiating for a taxi back to your hotel; choosing the right inter-city flight; or the simple process of finding the right train platform, then coach, then seat at the Delhi station. The second comes in selecting the right guides, destinations and lodging which fit your individual preferences.

The key in India is to work with an expert firm who create exclusive itineraries and personalized travel experiences. This is an indispensible part of the process. Delhi-based Travelscope India pays personal attention to each traveler, and brings a wealth of insider knowledge gleaned from years of working in this fascinating market. The firm has created customized itineraries for things as exotic as elephant trips from city-to-city to archaeological tours, and their expertise reaches into all corners of the subcontinent. Mohan and his staff of travel specialists can handle any requests with the optimum of efficiency, aplomb, insider knowledge and a real human touch. This dimension of involvement can make the difference between a trip that is simply memorable or one that is memorably outstanding.

Travelscope India

118, DLF Qutab Plaza, DLF City, Phase-1

Gurgaon 122 002 NCR of Delhi

INDIA

+91 124 438 1801

www.travelscopeindia.com

contact@travelscopeindia.com

www.travelscopeindia.blogspot.com

An Interwoven Tale, Part II
















Readers of these ramblings may recall the account of an odyssey to the Hebrides of Scotland in August 2007, following the footsteps of Johnson and Boswell (see http://smoss-endlessroad.blogspot.com/2007/09/interwoven-tale-part-i-in-late-summer.html). There a coat length of real Harris tweed was purchased at the Kenneth MacKenzie Mills in Stornoway, Isle of Lewis. The tweed eventually found its way to the premises of John Pearse in Soho, London in February 2008, where measurements were taken, and the venerable process of custom tailoring a bespoke jacket began. (The archaic term 'bespoke' refers to the practice of first buying the cloth before it is actually made into a garment: the cloth was said to be spoken for, and thus could not be taken by anyone else.) While jackets can be made up in a matter of weeks, owing to the itnieraries of the client, this finished garment was delivered in August 2008, but well worth the six-month wait.
Mr. Pearse's minimalist shop, a few steps from Saville Row, is an oasis of contemporary style mixed with traditional standards of fine tailoring. There's a selection of Pearse-created ready-made suits, jackets, coats, shirts, caps and pajamas on hand, but John is best-known for superior made-to-measure, both for ladies and gents. In addition to cutting a very fine, fitted silhouette, his jackets often sport eccentric, colorful and idiosyncratic linings. For the tweed jacket Mr. Pearse located a printed silk of newspaper headlines from the 1968 Paris student demonstrations, a perfect match ideologically for the jacket's intended wearer. With the leftover cloth he cut a beautifully finished vest. As always, the details shine, the angle and placement of pockets, the drape of the shoulder, the slight curve of the waist, even the color of stitching on button holes becomes an aspect of perfection.
The joy of working with a master tailor cannot be overstated. Pearse's creations do not come cheap. Your patience is required. These are garments which last a lifetime, cut to the client's unique dimensions, built to bring out the best of the wearer and the beauty of the cloth. The first time you don a jacket made just for you, the irrefutable pleasure of wearing a singular personalized object comes close to a true sense of all which is sublime.

John Pearse
6 Meard Street
W1F OEG
London UK
tel:020 7434 0738
fax: 020 7287 3862
jp@johnpearse.co.uk
www.johnpearse.co.uk

David Kapp at Ruth Bachofner


I am a big fan of this artist, who only gets better and better as the years pass. Had the pleasure of visiting Kapp's latest installation of work completed in 2008 at the opening in Santa Monica last night, and found the canvases as durable and surprising as ever. His color palette evolves with deep layers of paint, scraped back, overpainted, rubbed out again, an archaeology in nuances of cool blues, greys, mauves, taupes, contrasted by piercing stabs of oranges and reds. The theme image 'Sqaure Crowd' is a tour de force of gestural paint applied in large scale- too late to grab it, as it quickly sold- though 'Chinatown (Age of Man) a 60 x 48" allegory has seductive content and some racy visual wit along with an adventurous composition. There's a fine, small work just to the left of the entry, which could easily have been painted by an AbEx artist, if it didn't have the solid trappings of figuration. Mostly it's a color field painting in modest scale, and a super bargain for a work by one who counts NYC's Metropolitan Museum of Art as a collector. There's still time to look at the show, which stays up until February 21.


Ruth Bachofner Gallery specializes in contemporary art.
2525 Michigan Avenue, Suite G2
in the Bergamot Station Art Center, Santa Monica, California
(adjacent to Santa Monica Museum of Art)
Telephone: 310-829-3300
www.ruthbachofnergallery.com

Humble Pie

England’s staggering expense can overwhelm the dollar-bearing tourist, so any foodie experience combining parsimony and adventure make the UK all the more delectable. Franco Manca, a storefront pizza joint just opened in London’s Brixton Market on the south side of the Thames, serves up an amazing, delicious, authentic and totally organic Neopolitan-style pizza for £5.40 ($10.50US), well worth a visit. You’ve got to call this a bargain unequalled in central London, where a mediocre slice could set you back the same amount or more, with no local color and maybe a bellyache for dessert. It sounds hard to get to, but Brixton is quite easily reached by Tube- simply head south on the lite blue Victoria Line to the last stop (Brixton Station). This takes maybe 20 minutes max from Green Park tube station. Walk out of the tube, turn left, then take the first left into the open air market lane where vendors hawk all manner of wares, then the first right into a narrow street, and then the first left in to the covered arcade called Market Row, clearly marked. Not difficult, actually quite accessible, and an adventure into the wild and wooly market- not a genteel, chi-chi destination, more of a foodie Mecca where the perfect balance of tomato, garlic, oregano, capers, olive, anchovy and mozzarella settle happily onto a perfectly-executed crust, hand-made by real Italians. You can quaff local brew, or try the home-made organic lemonade, an ideal accompaniment. Young locals have discovered this place which offers top-quality flavor, honest ingredients, a great price and a bohemian atmosphere a stone’s throw from Central London.

Also, see: http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2008/sep/21/restaurants.foodanddrink1

Franco Manca

Sourdough Pizza

Unit 4, Market Row

London SW9 8LD

Tel 020 7738 3021